![]() If it does come in contact, then just wash with soap and water.Ĭlamp the red clip to the positive terminal of your car battery.Ĭlamp the black clip to the negative terminal of your car battery. If not, then clean as required being cautious not to allow any contact on your skin because this is battery acid. Make sure the auto engine is off and the key is removed from the ignition.įor the next steps, make sure the battery terminals are clean enough to allow for a good connection. On most Chevy v8 engines that run cams designed for street/strip use Ive generally found a advance that goes from about 8 degrees at idle speed (800-900rpm in most cases) and smoothly advances the ignition to about 36 degrees or about 28 degrees at about 3200rpm, is generally a good place to start, or about 82 degrees advance per hundred rpm, you can then play with the engine and determine what changes MIGHT be required. Obviously you need to have a consistent base line advance curve to work with, The use of timing tape on the damper is a huge help and yeah, the glue on the tape tends to get loose so use some contact cement sparingly, the contact cement works, but a simple spray coat of a clear lacquer spray paint sprayed over the tape and allowed to dry locks it on the damper fairly well also, or you can spend just a bit more, and buy a damper cover, and adjustable timing tab, just remember to verify TDC Your total timing will be in the 32-40degree range, on a timing tape on the damper Obviously getting the ignition timing correct in relation to the compression stroke and piston location in the engine will result in far less chance of detonation and piston damage or loss of potential hp, and getting the ignition advance curve correct is also critical, IVE generally found havering full advance all in by about 2900-3100rpm is a good compromise and while the components used in the engine can change the results, full advance at about 36-38 degrees at 3100rpm is a good basic starting point. When your using a timing light you'll need to verify the battery connections are correct as to polarity, and the wires cant contact moving components like fans, fan belts and pulleys, you'll need to verify that only the wire from the #1 cylinder contacts the timing lights inductor clip, and that NOTHING contacts the hot headers, and you should NEVER wear a TIE or LOOSE clothing around a running engine! The older model Sears Craftsman Timing Light (P/N A-2134) is usually consistent, MSD, makes their own, timing light (P/N 8990). ![]() IF you own a couple timing lights check them all at the same engine at at least 3000 rpm, and you'll commonly see variations in the results and THAT'S BAD, if its off a couple degrees at 3000rpm, at 6000-7000rpm it can and probably will cause problems, when your engine timing is not even close to what you expect it to be. the type that allows you to set the timing advance or retard for the flashing strobe light,with a dial are usually not nearly as consistent, as many of the ones without that feature. some won,t work well with solid core wire, some are heat sensitive. MANY are cheaply constructed and not all that accurate. Many timing lights are less than consistent or accurate, nor can they give exactly consistent results at different rpm levels. Get that ignition to fire a bit early and detonation can cause major problems, if its delayed in relation to the pistons location it will result in less effective pressure and a hotter exhaust header. by watching the TDC indicator mark on the damper in relation to a timing tab on the timing chain cover.īut accuracy is critical to success,CONSISTENCY, AND REPEATABILITY and A BRIGHT STROBE YOU CAN EASILY SEE IN DAYLIGHT too SEE WHAT YOUR DOING IS CRITICAL. To do that you need to know the exact piston location in its repetitive 720 degree cycle. ![]() Naturally its nearly useless to try and time the ignition until you've carefully verified TDC marks on the damper are correct The basic concept is deceptively simple, get the ignition to light off the compressed cylinder full of that fuel/air mix at the exactly correct instant that will produce the best torque and least wasted pressure working against the piston before it passed over TDC to drive the connecting rod down against the crank journal and spin the crank. There's no question that timing lights are a rather basic tool,and are reasonably easy to use, but there's a great difference in accuracy between different models. ![]()
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